Download Ebook , by William Finnegan
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, by William Finnegan
Download Ebook , by William Finnegan
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Product details
File Size: 3910 KB
Print Length: 466 pages
Publisher: Corsair; 01 edition (August 6, 2015)
Publication Date: August 6, 2015
Language: English
ASIN: B00X7UHVDY
Text-to-Speech:
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Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#363,358 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
This is, quite simply, the best memoir I've ever read.I originally got the audiobook (even though I'm not an audiobook kind of guy) to help supplement my long drives to work. After the first few minutes, I was hooked. I've since listened to the audiobook twice, and have purchased a physical copy to see if it is as good as I would think holding it in my hand, going at my own pace. It is, and more.I am not a surfer. I have never been a surfer, and - though I did spend a decent part of my youth summers at the beach - surfing to me has always been one of those things, "Out there", in the ether. Ephemeral. Johnny Utah and that kind of stuff. Despite that, I have found myself drawn to it's literature, perhaps because of a longing of things I wish I'd done, perhaps to quench my knack of ex-patness, perhaps as a midlife crisis. Regardless, though this book is "about' (I use quotes intentionally, b/c it can or is or encompasses just that, but also so much more) surfing, it is written so eloquently that it could be about anything, and I would still love it.The prose, the pace, the presentation of the subject matter both intimate and as timepieces from afar - everything about this book is wonderful.Read it, you won't be disappointed.
This is writing. It is writing about a life well lived, and it brings on a certain sorrowful pleasure in reading. As the pages are turned, stories of glory and excitement turn to stories of pain and aging, to introspection and loss. Such is life for all of us, regardless of whether we surfed these waves or even lived this big of a life. There aren't many who have been able to pull off writing of this type, that makes the reader feel alive simply by reading about the accomplishments of others.When I was finished, I noticed that my book had somehow become water damaged, which left the pages wrinkled. It was almost like the book had lived a bit and seen the sea a few too many times. Somehow this left me with a sense of pride, as if some of this adventure was mine as well. That is what good writing does, and it's too bad that we have to plow through so many books to find one like this.
Enjoyed the book..it took me back some years having grown up in South Bay with middle school in Hermosa Beach with lots of beach/surf time between Haggarty's and Redondo Beach breakwater. My first time on the board was at Palos Verdes Paddleboard Cove, commonly call just "The Cove". In those days, big & heavy boards..no leash!I can recall across from Pier Avenue Elementary School was Greg Noll's..just down the street at Jacob's surfboard shops. The LightHouse was a popular place and across the street was the Golden Bear..perhaps some might recall.Ventured to Hawaii and spent a month or so surfing the North Shore with my 9'6" Bing and "learned my lesson" about surfing the "bigger waves". Moved into Waikiki and lived in what was called "The Cages" and work at Hawaiian Tuna Packers..after leaving and receiving draft notice..did a tour in RVN 68-69..returned to college and retired as LTC US Army Infantry Officer. Worked most of the wars with my last gig in Uganda training and assisting the battalions in preparation for deployment into Mog, Somalia.Those were the "good ol' days" with sun, sea, surf and great times. Few crowds..a welcome community of local surf guys and few social issues. How times have changed..!Been surfing for many years..I have my 9'6" Becker over my desk. thanks Bill for the memories! (Pic(s): Surfboard & FOB Gardez, Afghanistan
I read this over several months, with other books interspersed, and it was always easy to come back to and pick up the thread. There were two downsides to the book. First, the author uses some surfing terns the rest of us, or at least me, find unfamiliar. It's fairly easy to deduce the meaning, and I am not suggesting a glossary; it was just a bit disconcerting at times. The second downside is highly personal. Near the end of the book, as he approaches sixty, he begins to doubt his ability to continue surfing. I read this on my ski trip and could not help but draw the parallel to concerns about my own ability to continue a sport I love. The list of things he captures well is long. The friendships he forged due to surfing. The battles of being in new schools and neighborhoods as an adolescent. The adventure of literally traveling the world without much money. The cultures he experienced first-hand. The political upheaval of the times from the US to South Africa. The difficulty of choosing a so-called adult profession. The connection afforded by family. Finnegan treats all these topics with care, insight, and an appropriate depth. This book may be about growing up, or finding oneself, or surfing, or all three. And that may be its greatest strength: the reader gets to decide what to take away from it.
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